move screen make notebook shut down

I don't have that model, but here are some ideas that I hope will be helpful:

In Control Panel>Power Management>Advanced Tab, my Inspiron 1150 has a choice to allow my computer to hibernate(or not) when the lid is closed. Does your model have this option?

Other models I have seen have a small pin that is pressed down when you start to close the lid. Maybe the pin is engaging(or not) too soon.

If you bought it  from Dell 7 months ago, it is still unde waranty. If they can't fix it over the phone, they will repair it. They pay shipping and provide a box and packing material.

 

Does the screen turn black and the power light is still lit ? Mine is doing the same thing this started Wednesday , mine will also go into this shut down if I tap my finger next to the touch pad to the right of it does yours do that ? I wish I could or some one tell me how to contact Dell by phone the online troble shooting area is the worst . Mine is still under warrenty and I just want to send it in but do not no where it seems to be the best kept secret in the world LOL

1-800-624-9897

Put aside 45 minutes. Wade thru many menus. Have the service tag # ready. They will try to fix it over the phone, if they can't then they will authorize you to send it for repair.

Message Edited by RZS on 07-03-2005 10:59 AM

Thank for your suggestion.

I have try to set the no sleep in the winodw power manager.

 

But it is not working , the problem is still here.

 

I think I have better to call the dell support.

 

Thanks again

 

Rev 3 - How to fix you broken Dell 1150 and 5150

 

This was mostly taken from another thread on this board.  I (Dan Perry) have modified the thread with a few more instructions and tips.  I just finished my second 1150 – I have 2, and have updated the instructions.

 

FIXING THE PROBLEM - you have nothing to loose if it's not working and outside warranty.  The second machine took less than 20 minutes to disassemble, 5 minutes to reflow the solder, and 20 minutes to re-assemble.  With the second machine, I had to do this twice because I did not get the solder to reflow the first time.  I have updated the soldering instructions below for the older and poorer eye-sighted.

 

The biggest issues in performing the procedure are keeping the right screws together (there are a lot of screws, different sizes and lengths) and re soldering the chip that is actually the cause of the problem.  This is really not too hard.  If you are not sure that you can do it, I’ve heard there may be some non-Dell service shops that will do it for you.  You may give them these instructions.

 

1.       Make sure you are well earthed (or “grounded” for Americans as if Americans can ever be well grounded) to prevent static.

2.       There are a lot of parts, if you think you may have a problem in re-assembly, get a camera and take sequential pictures as you go.

3.       Remove power and the battery

4.       Remove the hard disk (2 screws – keep with the drive)

5.       Remove the M cover on the bottom and remove the memory chip (push the little tabs outward and it will pop up).  Keep the M cover and the memory together.

6.       Remove the C cover and clip off the two tabs on the side of the cover.

7.       Disconnect the modem cable under the C cover and remoce the modem with the 2 screws.  Keep the modem and it’s two screws together.

8.       Remove the DVD drive, one screw marked with an oval symbol next to the serial number tag and a little black plastic lever under the M cover will pop it out.  Keep the screw and the DVD together

9.       Remove the two posts on the VGA connector on the back panel of the computer (the hex head posts used to hold an external VGA screen cable in place).

10.   Remove the keyboard by tilting the screen all the way back and prying out the cover with the power button on it and then the four keyboard screws.  The gently pull the keyboard cable straight up from the socket on the motherboard.  Keep the 4 keyboard screws and the keyboard together.

11. Remove the tin plate under the keyboard one screw and keep with the tin plate.

12. Remove the 2 screws from the power switch PC board and gently pull the power switch PC board straight up (may need to pry gently under the corner of the PC board).  Keep these screws with the power switch PC board.

13. Remove the LCD display.  Unplug the LCD connector from the motherboard pulling gently straight up on the soft tab.  Gently lift the tape holding down the cable from the case.  You will need to re-attach the tape – leave the tape on the flat cable.  Now remove the 3 screws from each of the 2 hinges.  Each hinge has 3 screws, 2 screws in the top and one in the back (the only two screws on the back of the computer).  Do the back two screws first.  Set the six screws and LCD display aside keeping the screws with the display.

14. Remove the 2 screws from under the LCD between the 2 hinges; keep these screws with the LCD.

15. Remove all remaining screws from the bottom of the base.  Keep these together marked bottom screws.  Remove the one screw from the bottom that is on the outside edge of the battery compartment.

16. Remove the top CPU cover with the touch pad and gently pull straight up to remove the touch pad connector.

17. Remove the CPU Fan (4 spring loaded screws) and one little cable. There is thermal grease that sinks the CPU to the fan assembly.  This may require a bit of slow constant force to remove.  Set the fan assembly aside.  Do not wipe off the thermal grease.  NOTE: in my second 1150 repair, the entire CPU came out of the socket with the fan.  If this occurs, gently pry the CPU from the heat sink noting the orientation of pin 1 on the CPU (a missing pin in one corner).  Then with a flat blade screwdriver, unlock the CPU socket and drop the CPU into the socket.  You will not need to press it in if the socket is released.  One the CPU is seated, re-lock it down with the socket latch screw.

18. Remove the graphics heat sink, 3 screws I think

19. Remove the plastic bracket around the battery – keep screws with bracket

20. Free the little board between the two tin covers (HD and CD), it is held with 2 screws the little board stays with the bottom case.  Don’t try to remove it, just get it out of the way for the next step

21. Remove the 2 tin covers 1 for the hard drive and one for the DVD/CD drive.  Keep the screws for these together with the tin pieces.  Note that the DVD cover has a metal tab that hooks into the motherboard so once the screws are removed gently slide the tin cover toward the board edge.  The second cover has a little latch that may be pressed slightly to unlatch it from the motherboard.

22. Remove the speaker connector on the front of the motherboard.

23. There are some remaining screws that hold the motherboard into the bottom case.  Remove them; keeping them together and labeling them mother board screws.  It will be difficult in re-assembling to know what holes to use these screws in, because now there are a lot of screw holes in the mother board that are no longer occupied.  If you want to be sure, you could get a highlighter (for marking papers) or a Sharpe and put a dot by each screw hole on the motherboard that you remove a screw from in this step.

24. The motherboard should now be free.

25. Once, you have full access to the motherboard. Under the mini PCI bus connector, which was positioned under the case cover labeled 'C' there is a black plastic sheet stuck to the motherboard to insulate. You will be able to see on this black plastic sheet dimples where the offending tabs were pressing the motherboard.

26. Peel this black plastic back to reveal the components; I used a piece of scotch tape to hold it back while performing surgery.

27. The chip that you need to re-solder is the one nearest the middle of the motherboard under the dimpled black plastic cover.

28. You will probably not be able to see any visible damage

29. The IC (chip) whose connections will have been broken by the pressure is an LVC14A with 14 pins, surface mount.

30. With a very fine electronic soldering iron (with a pin point tip) touch each of the IC legs for 1 second to re-melt the connections that have likely fractured by the pressure. It is not that difficult - just needs a very steady hand. Do not add any solder, you may burn the board or join two pins together - they are very fine !!!

31. That was for the folks that still have a very steady hand, great eyesight, and a pinpoint tip on their soldering pencil.  As for me (Dan), I have none of the above, but I do have a very small tip soldering iron.  With a dry tip (absolutely no solder – actually never even been tinned) I slowly (about 4-6 seconds total) dragged the tip across all the pins on both sides of the chip.  I did this 3-4 times on each side allowing a few seconds between sides to make sure I did not overheat the chip.  On my second 1150, I had not put the soldering iron on long enough to reflow the solder and I had to pull it apart a second time.

32. Put it back together - AND IT WILL BE FIXED

33. A note on re-assembly, the CPU heat sink uses the spring-loaded screws so as to not overstress the CPU connections with the heavy fan assembly.  In tightening the screws, initially I believed that they were intended to not be tightened right down tight.  After doing the second CPU, I believe they were intended to be snugged down tight and not backed off.

ENJOY YOU NEW LAPTOP and the fact you just saved £400 - Remember to remove the C cover tabs to stop it happening again

This is an older post and has been answered in another message but here:

This problem can be fixed by simply tightening the screws below the hinges for the LCD panel.  When the screws are loose the motherboard apparently flexes or something and causes a short.

 

 

This sounds just like the problem I described with the 1150 below.  I fixed both of mine.  I think you will find it happens when you move the screen up or down.  To determine if your's has the came problem , remove the little comver called "C" under the CD drive.  See if the cover has two small plastic tabs that, when closed, will press down on a piece of black plastic and if under the black plastic (you will see the slight marks in it from the cover) there is a black integrated circuit.  If so, that is what happedn to mine and hundreds of other models (2150 and 5150's).  I described how I fixed mine 2 computers in one of these threads.