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XPS 8930, GPU and CPU Liquid Cooler, PSU, Case Swap, Upgrade
Computer: Dell XPS 8930
CPU: i7 8700
CPU Cooler: UPGRADE: Corsair H60 (2018 Model) Hydro Series AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
Graphic card manufacturer / model number: UPGRADE: Liquid cooled MSI GeForce GTX 1080 SEA HAWK X 8GB 256-Bit GDDR5X PCI Express 3.0 x16 ATX Video Card
Bios: 1.0.12
Operating System: Windows 10 Home v.1803
Power supply: UPGRADE: Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, SSR-850FX, 850W Compact Modular Power Supply
Monitor: Samsung S34E790C - 34-Inch Curved WQHD (3440 x 1440) LED Monitor using Displayport.
Edit: 06/06/19
Case fan upgrades here
PSU upgrades here
Non-Dell GPU upgrades here
Phanteks case swap summary here
Case swap rather than case mod for more cooling options here and here and here
Motherboard connections for case swap here
Full liquid cooling with waterblock here
Tests slim 15mm fans with HWInfo.
Idle CPU Temps 32C.
Idle fan speeds intake 450-500 RPM
CPU FAN and TOP FAN = motherboard headers
***Prime 95 v2.66 CPU Torture Test, Small FFT, 12 cycles. 60 minutes:
CPU temps 66-70C. Max temp 75C (boost)
Clock speeds 3492 mHz (~10% overclock @ 65W TDP), max 4490 mHz
Voltage stable at 1.022, max was 1.3
Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 1078
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 1019
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM.
Prime 95. initial boost of CPU 100% load at 4490 mHz at 110 W / 1.3v. Then tests at stable ~10% overclock 3492-3589 mHz at ~65W at 1.022 volts, temps 66-70C.
***3d Mark Fire Strike Test for system 1080P, ~ 7min.:
CPU Temps: Max 75C
Clock speeds max 4388 mHz
Voltage max was 1.31
Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 906
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 869
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM.
GPU Temps: Max 79C
GPU Fan speed, 1100 RPM idle, max RPM 2822
GPU Clock max 1961 mHz
So far, CPU temps okay. But GPU temps high, will check bezel airflow.....
***3d Mark Fire Strike Test 1080P, ~ 7min
(front bezel off to test airflow restriction)
CPU Temps: Max 72C
Clock speeds max 4388 mHz.
Voltage max 1.31
Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) CPU cooler max RPM 853
Lower Intake fan (TOP FAN) GPU cooler max RPM 1183
Upper exhaust fan fixed 1500 RPM.
GPU Temps: Max 72C
GPU Fan speed, 1100 RPM idle, max RPM 2611
GPU Clock max at 1965 mHz
Changes with front bezel off:
CPU temps dropped by 3C
GPU temps dropped by 8-10C
CPU temps acceptable through bezel. GPU airflow through bezel needs tweaking!
==========
The install:
Tasks for upgrade in new XPS 8930:
1) Install Corsair H60 (2018 Model) Hydro Series AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
2) Install lower front intake fan/radiator with liquid cooled MSI Sea Hawk GTX 1080 HYBRID GPU
3) Upgrade PSU to Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, 850W Compact Power Supply
I need to accomplish this keeping in mind the following:
-Run the Corsair CPU cooler pump at constant 100% speed
-Requires fans connected to both 4 pin fan headers (CPU FAN) and (TOP FAN) to avoid startup error.
==========
Installing Corsair Liquid CPU Cooler:
New 2018 Corsair Hydro Series H60 has 157 x 120 x 27mm radiator and SP120 PWM fan. Pump has rotating barbs for hose placement to avoid the swinging PSU. Pump connects to a PSU SATA cable for 100% power and the radiator PWM fan to the CPU FAN motherboard 4 pin header. Optional tach cable to monitor pump speed and provide a signal to the fan header to prevent startup errors. Fan specs: SP120 PWM, 1700 RPM, 28.3 dBA, 57.2CFM.
Slim fan for tight location: Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM, 1850 RPM 23.9 dBA 55.44 CFM / 1400 RPM 16.8 dBA 41.67 CFM
The 3 pin version is a good option at fixed speed to noise tolerance for constant airflow.
Review below posted 60C temps with i7 8700K CPU 30 min stress test at stock clocks.
https://proclockers.com/reviews/cooling/corsair-hydro-series-h60-120mm-liquid-cooler-review
Nice installation guide here:
https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/corsair-h60-review.html
The XPS 8930 chassis is similar to the Alienware R5/R6/R7, but the Alienware allows for CPU liquid cooling by having an opening to mount the fan/radiator through the top of the chassis, an installation bracket, and a top cover to house the unit.
With no such space in the XPS 8930, I saw two possible locations a liquid cooler could be installed: Upper exhaust and front intake.
1) Tried the upper exhaust position first without success with the radiator in the top exhaust fan location. The problem is that the rigid hose fittings protrude into the case 20mm. The PSU bracket is not able to close.
I also tried the radiator upside down with the hoses above the motherboard. But with the radiator lined up with the top exhaust opening, a CPU power connector, capacitor and fan header block the area at the hose fittings.
2) Next the front upper intake position at the hard drive location. With intake cooling, cool air enters the radiator but warm air exits into the case. Should not be a problem if CPU temps are ok.
I found that the radiator can install with hoses up or down. With the radiator upside down, the hoses can spread on either side of the motherboard ATX connector.
Picture bottom install location:
Flipping the radiator upright, the swinging PSU bracket negates any liquid cooling in that location with the hoses up as the bracket cross bar crushes the hoses when lowered.
However, I found that by removing the cross bar off the bracket and a small corner off the bracket support leg it would work.
So I chose having the hoses up as the installation path.
1) Flatten the wire holders in that location.
2) Remove the two support legs and the swinging PSU bracket by removing screws at the leg supports and a few at the rear.
3) Used dremel reinforced cutting wheel to do about 5 minutes worth of cutting, then deburring the cut edges.
Picture dremel cuts. (Additional recommended cut to use 25mm fan here)
4) Then placed the radiator up with the hoses at the front of the chassis. The bottom of the radiator fits between the two screws that hold down the supports of the PSU bracket.
5) Attach the 15mm fan with the model label showing for pull orientation and use 4 - 1” or 1 ¼” 6-32 machine screws to attach the radiator. NOTE: The 6-32 screws used for the radiator have a different thread than the 6-32 hex head screws being used in the case. Big box stores have these screws.
Pic of screws
6) Carefully mark the location of the holes in the radiator and drill four holes to mount the radiator to the front of the chassis.
How I did this was place the radiator, then use tape on the front of the chassis to mark the sides of the radiator position.
Then put another piece of blue tape across the front of the radiator at the middle of the top holes.
With the radiator in position inside the chassis and the sides lined up with the tape, look through the rear grill at the blue tape and mark the height of that tape on the front chassis. Marks represent the height of the radiator holes.
Mark the height of the holes with another piece of tape across the front of the chassis.
You now have the height of the top holes.
7) Place a fan on the chassis between the two pieces of tape at the sides and line the two top holes with the radiator mark. Mark all four holes . Again tape off the case well to make sure you don’t get metal filings anywhere.
Mount the radiator with fan to the chassis using ¾” 6-32 machine screws.
9) Installing the pump head:
Clean CPU with alcohol. You see the 4 mounting holes here
Using th 4 double sided pins, put the lower pins into the mounting holes. No modifications needed, the unit is set up for the Dell motherboard LGA1151 CPU socket. Mount the cooler pump by placing the corner attachment brackets on the upper pins and tighten the thumb screws. You can’t overtighten these, they just won’t turn any further when tight.
10) Connect radiator fan to the 4 pin CPU FAN header.
11) Attach pump SATA power to the PSU.
12) With no cross bracket on the PSU swinging bracket, there is room for the pump hoses to flex under the PSU. There is a smooth rounded edge where the bracket contacts the hoses when closed. As an additional precaution install braid wrap on the upper part of the hose for protection at that point.
Done!
Picture again from top, note no bar on the PSU bracket and the edge of the lower part of the PSU bracket that will contact the hoses when down.
==========
Installing MSI GTX 1080 Hybrid GPU: The 151mm high radiator is installed in a sideways position with the hoses in front. The GPU is 10.5” long leaving little room for both fan and radiator at the lower intake position.
With little space to put a fan on the radiator inside the case, the slim 15mm fan was mounted in front of the chassis and under the front bezel. The front bezel is over 20 mm deep so the fan is able to still pull air from the bezel front side vents.
Picture front bezel
1) The only problem encountered was a large raised hole in the middle of the front of the chassis which interfered with fan placement. Keep turning the fan to the position centered to the radiator where the fan frame doesn't hit that large bump.
2) Check that the side of the radiator is clear of the swinging arm of the PSU bracket. Important!.
3) Drill 4 holes, attach the fan to radiator using 4- 1 ¼” 6-32 machine screws.
I also used a10mm foam compressible Phoyba radiator gasket on the radiator due to the 1" wide flange at the rear of the front chassis.
It supports the Alienware R5/6/7 front intake fan bracket that snaps in at this location. That piece of metal prevents the radiator from sitting flush. The gasket took up that space. It has adhesive on one side to attach to the radiator.
Note: In the picture of the front bezel a large plastic hollow pin sticks up that would hit the fan in that location. Trim with the dremel cutting wheel.
Picture front install, note no bar on the PSU swinging bracket.
4) Connect the slim fan on the AIO radiator to the 4 pin header (TOP FAN). (Noctua NF-A12x15 FLX 1850 RPM 23.9 dBA 55.44 CFM / 1400 RPM 16.8 dBA 41.67 CFM)
Notes
Protect the radiator fins with a piece of cardboard taking the GPU in/out. They are bent easily by the corner of the GPU.
Edit 9/18/18 GPU temps resolved here: (must read prior to installing, grillwork is removed)
Edit 02/23/19 Recommended cuts to use 25mm fan on CPU radiator here and here
Edit 03/15/19 Fixed speed radiator fan CPU temps 55°C range here
**This thread edited for accuracy, add'l pics and current information.
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
February 23rd, 2019 12:00
AB
Thanks for the compliments Nice of you, but hardly. I am just a tinkerer that is willing to step outside of the box to figure things out. I fortunately have the rest of the community to help me out when I have questions.
In regards to a main case swap thread, I sent a PM on to Zeus about perhaps changing the title on his NZXT case swap thread to a more generic title. As you mentioned, the H500 case on the title limits the participation in that thread and those instructions wouldn’t work for the XPS 8930.
I am still waiting for a response. In the meantime I slightly changed the title of this thread to reflect some of the other content. Let’s wait on Zeus’ response before making a decision on a main case swap thread. Your case swap is definitely worthy of being the initial post, its well written and has good pictures. Who starts the thread isn’t so important.
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
February 23rd, 2019 12:00
AB
The CPU temps in the NZXT case are perhaps 3-4C degrees cooler than in the original case with liquid cooling. Similar setup as intake fan in the upper position. Thought it would be more because of the wider 25mm fan on the cooler, better airflow and one more fan in the case as exhaust. However, the machine is a lot quieter under load at these lower temps. This is because the CPU cooler fan on the radiator never got above 670 RPM on the testing due to the conservative motherboard fan curve.
The GPU temps were pretty much the same. I think that is because I am running the GPU as exhaust in the new case whereas I had it as intake on the XPS 8930. The fan on the GPU did run at a lower RPM and that is probably because of the lower intake fan pulling cool air in below the GPU(same setup as yours).
I think perhaps the effect of the new case might be more obvious if we were overclocking where we would then be testing the thermal limits of the radiators. Right now the radiator and fans are just cruising along (CPU fan 600-700 RPM at load).
NZXT H500 Temps:
Windows 10 Home 64 bit
CPU i7 8700
16GB stock Dell RAM
Corsair H60 (2018) CPU cooler with stock SP120 PWM fan to CPU FAN header, tach cable to TOP FAN header
MSI SeaHawk GTX 1080 Hybrid GPU with liquid cooler and stock SP120 fan fixed speed to PSU.
(2) NZXT Aer F120 case version fans fixed speed to PSU (1200 RPM, 50.42 CFM, 28 dBa)
Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850W PSU
Samsung 970 EVO 1GB NVMe PCIE M.2 2280 SSD as boot drive
Samsung 860 EVO iTB SATA III 2.5" SSD
***Prime 95 v2.66 CPU Torture Test, Small FFT, 12 cycles. 30 minutes:
CPU temp end of test runs 68C. Max temp 72C
Thermal throttling: NO
Clock speeds stable at 3492 mHz (~10% overclock @ 65W TDP), max 4290.5 mHz
Voltage stable at 1.022, max was 1.3
Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) for CPU cooler max RPM 670
***3d Mark Fire Strike Test for system at 1080P, ~ 7min.:
CPU Temps during test max temp 66C
Upper Intake Fan (CPU FAN) for CPU cooler max RPM 601
GPU Temps: Max 58C
GPU Fan speed, 1679 RPM
GPU Clock max at 1987 mHz
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
February 23rd, 2019 13:00
Picture of the rear IO panel without a shield on the NZXT 500. The Meshify case has the panel a little more inset rather than close to flush on the NZXT case.
Not hideous, but could be cleaner looking with a shield there.
Also a picture with that mesh DIY shield from the big auction site. Nice color match, black. Adhesive on one side to attach outside the case or can be maneuvered inside the case behind the IO connectors, especially in the Fractal case that AlienBlaster is using where there is a large gap there to work with.
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
February 23rd, 2019 13:00
RWG,. here are the two cards I used. Both were plug and play with W10. Tesla and Speedstep were discussing USB 3.0 PCI E cards in a thread somewhere and how certain cards were better than others in the Dell machines. I thought I had it bookmarked. They mentioned certain chipsets made better USB controllers. I will keep looking for it.
I do know that these USB 3.0 cards depending on if they are PCI x 1 or PCI x2 can offer more power. (longer card that take up more connectors, up to x4 in the XPS 8930) I also know that if you pay two to three times as much, you can get a USB 3. card that has dedicated bandwidth for each USB port rather than sharing the bandwidth across all the ports for a particular card. So it comes down how demanding the user is with the USB 3.0 interface.
At some point when you factor in the cost of a PCI-E card, then you have to look at a new motherboard that can do the same without the limitations of the loss of the XPS motherboard headers in a new case.
Here is the Realtek (Fresco on Device manager ) chip, non-powered card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2H64
Here is the Via chip with onboard power
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SJGGAE
Both relatively inexpensive. Looking for a card that can handle Oculus on reviews would give you an idea how robust a particular card is.
Both cards tested out with similar USB 3.0 speeds when connected to the front panel of this NZXT case as when connected to the original front headers of the XPS 8930. I used a non-powered Toshiba USB 3.0 portable HDD to test the speed as that should test the power capability of the PCIE card with no power.
Pic of installed cards and connectors
Powered card
Non-powered card in case with working case swap, IO panel hidden. The front radiator is hidden in front of the fan behind the front bezel.
Here is a pic of the USB 3.0 female to USB 2.0 male connector that did not cause a startup error when connected to the black header on the motherboard. I could not get the front headers on the new case to work when I tried different combination of connectors using this cable. That blue cable has to be connected into the blue header.
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
February 23rd, 2019 14:00
rwgordon install of 25mm fan on Corsair H60 Radiator
Thanks to your install of the 25mm wide fan to the H60 CPU cooler I did a little more trimming on the case to be able to do this to replace the 15mm slim fan. I have the case empty from the case swap so went ahead and did it. Still on the fence if I go back to the original case.
I cut this piece off here
Now there is more room between the back of the fan and the connectors at that location. Thank you! The radiator slides forward under that metal lip now and rests against the two threaded posts for those two HDD bracket screws on either side. Thought about shaving those down as well. Looks like you are able to get under those posts so assuming you did that as well.
Like you said, the H75 radiator should fit there under those posts as it is a little shorter.
Space behind the fan for the main power connector and the USB connectors.
BTW I used that reinforced Dremel cutting wheel, seems to hold up better than those thin ones. Always wear safety glasses, a mask and move the wife's car out of the way when working in the garage just in case!
Update: I did cut those short posts off where the HDD bracket screws thread into. The H60 radiator now fits under the side of the chassis. The screws will still thread properly afterwards.. But I discovered (afterwards off course) that you can take a lineman plier (or any wide jaw plier with electrical tape on jaws to protect the metal) and slightly bend the sheet metal upwards to get more clearance. Thanks again Ray.
chosmer
10 Posts
0
February 23rd, 2019 15:00
Yes, I bought this bracket and fan off ebay, and you have to put a different 120mm fan in the bracket, the fan that comes with it will make the box sound like a vacuum cleaner.
Listen here
https://photos.app.goo.gl/eArz6z1m6BQb2paS7
chosmer
10 Posts
0
February 23rd, 2019 15:00
Update, I put that Thermaltake 120mm I had in and MUCH MUCH quieter! So ran some WoW for about 6 hours and never went over 80c on either the CPU & the GPU. I certainly would love to get it under 70c which is where my older box would run, but I am happy with those numbers. Besides I do not think I will be doing any OC anytime soon.
rwgordon
25 Posts
0
February 24th, 2019 08:00
HanoverB,
Your trimming the case frame is much cleaner / precise looking than mine came out! Are you going to move back to XPS case? As for me, I am stuck in a loop, already purchase a Fractal Arc Midi case for $40 @ Newegg , need to add pcie usb internal header card $20+ or upgrade mother board Z370 or Z390 $110-$150+ then have to deal with activating windows on it as upgrade to Dell XPS license/key. Or just live with the few short comings of the XPS 8930 case. I hate to lose the usb C connector on the front of the case as a few years from now it could be handy to have there. So like I said , I just keep going in circles on this, but like you I like to tinker!
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
February 24th, 2019 13:00
Zeus changed the title of that thread to a more generic title for the XPS 8190, 8920, 8930
https://www.dell.com/community/XPS-Desktops/XPS-8910-8920-8920-SE-8930-Case-Upgrade-Mods/m-p/7239064#M22250
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
February 24th, 2019 23:00
Back in old case, changed a few things.
1) Using a 25mm wide single fan on Corsair H60 (2018) CPU cooler radiator like your setup.
OEM Corsair SP120 fan on the H60 fine since the fan speed never gets above 1000 RPM with the cooler. Noise is really not an issue with this fan.
2) Wrapped the tubing on both the Corsair H60 and MSI Sea Hawk units with NTE Self closing wrap.
Will run some stress tests again sometime this week just to check things.
This Corsair fan never spins above 700 RPM with the managed CPU temps and is fairly quiet and is muted by the radiator in the pull position behind the radiator. No reason to use a different fan unless you choose to fix the fan speed by connecting it to the PSU for lower temps.
Used the CJR SATA to 3 x 4 Pin Fan Power Adapter here to connect the upper exhaust fan and lower front intake fixed speed fans. Easier cable and connector management than using the bulky molex connectors in the area below the GPU. I was able to remove the molex modular cable from the PSU. PSU cable bundle and lower compartment looking less cluttered.
Final connections:
Corsair H60 CPU cooler pump power to SATA connector from PSU, 3 pin tach cable to TOP FAN Header
CPU cooler radiator fan: Corsair SP120 fan 4 pin PWM fan connected to CPU FAN header on motherboard
GPU cooler radiator fan: Noctua NF-A12x15 FLX, 3 pin fan at fixed speed 1400 RPM using LNA to PSU
Upper Exhaust fan: Noctua NF-S12A FLX 3 pin fan at fixed speed 1200 RPM to PSU
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
February 24th, 2019 23:00
Good work.
That's a lot of raiding...6 hours straight?
AlienBlaster
20 Posts
0
February 25th, 2019 11:00
Hi BanoverB,
Thanks for the info about temps. I was genuinely interested.
Those numbers look very good either way. I understand your choice of going back to the XPS case, since you already achieved optimal temps and noise level with your out-of-the-box thinking and doing. You will see very little benefits with case swapping when you can liquid cool both CPU and GPU and have sufficient air flow for both radiators. If you have no difficulties accommodating other parts in the case (I see you use SSDs only), the XPS case also has the advantage of having a much smaller form factor (25L vs 35L for H500). Your moddings with the front panel RGB fan frames look really cool and unique.
Your exploration will still greatly benefit others who consider trade-offs and even viability between various options. Case swapping and/or air cooling may still be easier and/or more economic than case modding and/or liquid cooling for many.
Also thanks for working with Zeus on creating and maintaining threads documenting the subject.
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
February 25th, 2019 18:00
You are welcome. I went back to the old case, just for those reasons you astutely stated.
I also put my computer into an enclosure and the NZXT 500 case would not fare well with the airflow from the side. The NXZT 400 case would have been better due to the dual intake and better airflow in general. If I would have kept a case swap I would have kept the first case we swapped, the Fractal Meshify Mini that has the airflow from the front.
The Fractal case belonged to a friend and I was able to use it before he used it for his build, I gave the NZXT case to my grandson after swapping back to this case.
Man, it took only 30 minutes or so to disassemble the old case for the case swap. Took me HOURS to get it back into the old case.....those cramped quarters and the PSU bracket are a pain. The behind the motherboard cable management and PSU shroud in those other cases are really great.
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
February 25th, 2019 18:00
Totally agree!!
HanoverB
798 Posts
0
March 12th, 2019 12:00
Update on another case swap:
I did a successful case swap.using a Phanteks Eclipse P350X.
Obviously, the need to do a case swap is primarily aimed at addressing the lack of cooling options we have with the XPS 8930 case. I like this case as it gives you these options, and adds built-In subtle RGB lighting in an affordable package ($60-$70). Sweet case!
Priced the same as the NZXT H500, less than the Meshify C Mini.
Case swap went well, followed the workarounds, brought the upper IO panel into the case, and there were no problems.
Wi-fi Antenna locations before I finished the cable management. Tucked into tie down tabs.
I’ll add some more pics after I add some fan frames and details.
Little more about the case
http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P350X.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJEaKt7zv5o
Details on next couple of posts about rear IO shield and this case swap.
Full summary on this case swap here
Finished pics: