What's the location of the fan? Easiest is to add the fan using a y-splitter, but you have to watch the total current draw if you do that. The original OEM fans draw a lot of current.
Another option is using SATA power, but you would need a separate controller like a Noctua NA-FC1. You fans will also need to be 4 pin PWM fans, not 3 pin.
True, but if adding another fan to the OEM might overload the fan header when using it at maximum RPM. The issue will be fan control being different due to the 4000 RPM OEM fan.
If you put it at something normal like 50%, and your other fan is let's say 2000 RPM, you will get 1000 RPM out of the aftermarket fan.
Out of curiosity, have you verified that the fan plugged into the CPU_Fan header still runs after windows loads? Older models had issues with using both the Pump fan (i.e., AIO waterblock) and CPU fan header simultaneously.
Yes the fan is working. I have not done any benchmarks or intensive gaming yet (Dell still hasn’t delivered my new monitor) so I don’t know if it speeds up based 0n CPU temps or not
Yes I could do the splitter rout, but if I did that I would also want to replace that front fan as well. On top of that I would need to remove the gpu…. So much work
Yes, I would have to replace the original fan in the front as well. Then I deal with ACC possibly not even recognizing the fan. Is there no way just to have my new fan thats plugged into the CPU port just to run at 75% all the time?
1. AWCC will monitor any fan plugged into the front fan header that is working properly (e.g, not stalling out).
2. Yes, back out the PWM wire from the 4 PIN connector on the fan, and then connect a low noise adapter.
AWCC is designed to report either the pump fan header or the CPU fan header, not both. That is the problem you're experiencing on the "recognition". No such issue for the front fan.
Yes, I would have to replace the original fan in the front as well. Then I deal with ACC possibly not even recognizing the fan. Is there no way just to have my new fan thats plugged into the CPU port just to run at 75% all the time?
I have 5 fans in mine, two on the rad, two up front, and one on the VRM heatsink.
The additional fans I just run off the PSU. Less clutter in the case and the noise at full speed is negligible. Keep in mind the Aurora doesn't have 5.25" optical drive bays but that would look cool otherwise.
speedstep
9 Legend
•
47K Posts
1
August 31st, 2021 15:00
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1 is a very good manual controller.
kingwin makes one that is mounted in a 3.5 bay
https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY/
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
1
August 30th, 2021 15:00
The CPU fan header is not manually PWM or voltage regulation controllable in BIOS or AWCC.
You can Y split it to a controllable fan header (top fan or front fan) and adjust it that way.
Vanadiel
6 Professor
•
7.1K Posts
0
August 30th, 2021 15:00
What's the location of the fan? Easiest is to add the fan using a y-splitter, but you have to watch the total current draw if you do that. The original OEM fans draw a lot of current.
Another option is using SATA power, but you would need a separate controller like a Noctua NA-FC1. You fans will also need to be 4 pin PWM fans, not 3 pin.
Vanadiel
6 Professor
•
7.1K Posts
0
August 30th, 2021 15:00
True, but if adding another fan to the OEM might overload the fan header when using it at maximum RPM. The issue will be fan control being different due to the 4000 RPM OEM fan.
If you put it at something normal like 50%, and your other fan is let's say 2000 RPM, you will get 1000 RPM out of the aftermarket fan.
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
0
August 30th, 2021 15:00
The headers are good for at least 1.4A, the pull of the OEM Nidec fan. Most consumer fans are less than 20 percent of that.
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
0
August 30th, 2021 15:00
Out of curiosity, have you verified that the fan plugged into the CPU_Fan header still runs after windows loads? Older models had issues with using both the Pump fan (i.e., AIO waterblock) and CPU fan header simultaneously.
Joabe12
5 Posts
0
August 30th, 2021 16:00
Yes the fan is working. I have not done any benchmarks or intensive gaming yet (Dell still hasn’t delivered my new monitor) so I don’t know if it speeds up based 0n CPU temps or not
Joabe12
5 Posts
0
August 30th, 2021 16:00
I added the fan to the front where the HD bay was. Y-splitter is probably the way to go just a little more work involved
Joabe12
5 Posts
0
August 30th, 2021 16:00
Yes I could do the splitter rout, but if I did that I would also want to replace that front fan as well. On top of that I would need to remove the gpu…. So much work
Vanadiel
6 Professor
•
7.1K Posts
0
August 30th, 2021 17:00
I y-split mine with a Noctua 120 mm I used to replace the original front fan. I have a second 80 mm Noctua in the 3.5" drive bay.
The 120 comes with a splitter, so it was super easy and they are both the same RPM.
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
0
August 31st, 2021 11:00
1. AWCC will monitor any fan plugged into the front fan header that is working properly (e.g, not stalling out).
2. Yes, back out the PWM wire from the 4 PIN connector on the fan, and then connect a low noise adapter.
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
0
August 31st, 2021 11:00
AWCC is designed to report either the pump fan header or the CPU fan header, not both. That is the problem you're experiencing on the "recognition". No such issue for the front fan.
Joabe12
5 Posts
0
August 31st, 2021 11:00
Yes, I would have to replace the original fan in the front as well. Then I deal with ACC possibly not even recognizing the fan. Is there no way just to have my new fan thats plugged into the CPU port just to run at 75% all the time?
Vanadiel
6 Professor
•
7.1K Posts
0
August 31st, 2021 15:00
I am actually thinking of adding 2 x 80 mm Noctua fans to the bottom side intake, use SATA power and that Noctua controller to regulate the fan speed.
r72019
6 Professor
•
5.3K Posts
0
August 31st, 2021 16:00
I have 5 fans in mine, two on the rad, two up front, and one on the VRM heatsink.
The additional fans I just run off the PSU. Less clutter in the case and the noise at full speed is negligible. Keep in mind the Aurora doesn't have 5.25" optical drive bays but that would look cool otherwise.